Great to hear you love the machine, please let us know if you need any further assistance.

We now have a helpdesk also just email [email protected] if you need help.

Hi, Sorry to be slow replying, the scale on the arm allows for the gap between the end of the arm and the cut line.  So, in your example you would set the stop on the arm for 24″ and 30″ accordingly.

Hi Philippe,

Firstly, your English is actually very good, and an awful lot better than my French!  The start of cut finger (the aluminium block our push down) has two purposes.  It both positions the blade in the correct position and by pressing down on it firmly holds the cutting head in position preventing it from moving away from you as the blade enters.  So as you say it is a question of strength when pushing the finger down, you will notice there are teeth on the underside of it to help.

I hope that helps, please let us know if we can be any further assistance.

Yes you are, but also check you are using the best blade for your passe-partout type.  For example if it is conservation quality it is likely to be quite hard and be better with a TECH S 012 blade.  If you would like to learn more about blades there is information in the instruction manual.  Please let us know if we can be any further help.

Hi JeffC2,

Can you be a little more specific please, what type of table are you referring to and what cutter are you mounting on it?

Hi ZoeB4,  it is very strange for the end of cut stop to be out of calibration that much, can you tell us what thickness and type of board you are cutting, what type of blade are you using and lastly please check the cursor (the thin metal part with the red scale on) has not been distorted, it should have two 90 degree bends.

As far as removing the glass cutting wheel you are along the right track with a bradawl or an opened up paperclip or fine screwdriver works.  Just push it into the larger of the two slots and push the triangular clip so it pops out the other side of the groove.  Push the clip so it rotates all the way out then pull it all the way out with a pair of pliers (grips).  You can sometimes pull it out with your fingers but it is quite a snug fit.

The replace it push the triangular clip in the main groove and align the flat ends of the wheel axel so it aligns with the smaller groove then take a scrap piece of hardwood moulding or a piece of plastic (the back face of a plastic rule works well) and press down hard on the wheel.  Initially the spring will compress and the block disappear slightly into the turret but push a little harder and it will bottom out and the glass cutter push fully into the back of the groove.

Changing over from the System 4000 you may not realise that when you insert a new wheel you may need to reduce the cutting pressure a little using the Allen screw adjacent to the green label.  Through the life of the wheel you will need increase the pressure little by little until it stops performing.  So this will need to be backed off when putting a new one in or it will score the glass far too deeply.

Lastly, apologies for being slow replying, new website and all it entails. ;o)